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May 26th
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Armenia And Turkey: Rapprochement Through The People

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Although official rapprochement between Turkey and Armenia is currently on ice, all hope should not be lost. While the politicians may be playing a waiting game, blaming each other for the failure of the process, a sort of unofficial rapprochement is quietly taking place. This is being carried out by increasing people-to-people contacts through a variety of different ways, including sporting activities and cultural projects. It is also being done through tourism. Turkey is now a leading European holiday destination -- good quality hotels and services at highly competitive prices are luring Armenians over the “closed border” to taste the delights that their traditional foe has to offer.

Armenians traditionally travel to other parts of Armenia for their summer vacation. The magnificent Lake Sevan, the mountain resort of Tsakhkadzor and the mineral spa of Jermuk being the most popular destinations. However, these resorts are not cheap and, with the global financial crisis hitting the country extremely hard, in addition to Armenia’s already difficult (if somewhat self-imposed) economic situation, Armenians are feeling the credit crunch. With Turkey offering very attractive packages, the idea of swimming in the Mediterranean Sea is becoming increasingly appealing to cash-strapped, land-locked Armenians.

While some Armenians see it as disgraceful -- “giving money to the enemy” -- it has not stopped increasing numbers from jetting off to Turkey. Indeed, Antalya now ranks as Armenia’s number-one summer vacation destination. In 2009 some 50,000 Armenians chose to go to Turkey. Statistics for this year indicate that this figure is set to increase by at least 30 percent. At least two charter flights per week carry passengers from Yerevan direct to Antalya, with flights set to run through to October. Tour operators in Armenia are also trying to expand transport options to Bodrum, and Armenian historic sites in Turkey, from Akdamar Island in Van to the Ani ruins near Kars, are another huge draw.

Both sides are making nice money out of this. Where there is business to be made and hard cash to be earned, historical squabbles are put to the side -- at least temporarily, anyway. Clearly not everybody in Armenia is happy about this development. Youth groups associated with the nationalistic Armenian Revolutionary Federation (Dashnaktsutiun) have demanded that the mayor of Yerevan remove all posters and billboards advertising Antalya. They claim that money being paid by Armenians is going to arm and strengthen Turkey, and posters claiming this fact are also springing up all over the place. So far it seems to be having little effect.

However, while the Armenian leadership is clearly not going to stop citizens from going to Turkey, it is looking at putting other options on the table and has plans to increase resorts available to Armenians. One such idea is the development of Nagorno-Karabakh and the surrounding provinces (legally part of Azerbaijan but currently occupied by Armenia) into an attractive place for Armenian holidaymakers. While there can be little doubt that many parts of this region are extremely beautiful and formerly a top holiday destination during Soviet times and earlier for the peoples of the Caucasus (Shusha and Kelbajar in particular), these days it would take an awful lot of work and money to transform them into a desirable holiday spot halfway comparable to Antalya -- during and after the war Armenian forces destroyed substantial (and in some cases all) infrastructure. Nevertheless, there seems to be no shortage of rich Armenian diaspora businessmen who would be only too happy to pour money into Nagorno-Karabakh, which they view as something as a hobby. However, while beautiful, there is no sea, or even a lake, to relax beside and, quite frankly, the sound of gunfire in the background -- as the cease-fire line continues to be violated -- may also be somewhat off-putting unless, of course, you are the type of tourist that enjoys vacations of a dangerous nature. And lastly, presently the only way to get to Nagorno-Karabakh is by road -- a four-hour trip -- although there are plans under way to create an airport that would see charter flights come from Yerevan direct to Nagorno-Karabakh.

Somehow I doubt the “Karabakh Option” or any other will reverse the trend of Armenians vacationing in Turkey. Turks and Armenians (and also Azerbaijanis) lie side-by-side on sun loungers enjoying themselves, having fun in the sun. So, while diplomacy may have its potholes and setbacks and the politicians continue to waffle and procrastinate, Turks and Armenians are getting on with life and by doing so getting to know each other better, which can only be a positive thing.

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